Skidoo Revs are older yes… but that doesn’t mean they cant be fast, it means there is more parts and information available.

By Tom Ferlaak

Hello Readers, I would like to kick off the Sled Tech area of by going over a couple modifications that can truly make a difference in your REV Chassis snowmobile, (and also other brands and types as well), but keeping a smaller budget in mind. These items will keep your sled running smooth, but also may get a little extra pickup so you can blast down the trail.

2007 SkiDoo Rev MXZ X 600 SDI
Extrovert Drivers 2007 Ski Doo MXZ X 600 SDI
Lucky for me! This sled already had Extrovert drivers which are a great upgrade.

Clean, Degunk, and freshen everything you can get your hands on…

When I picked up my 2007 Skidoo MXZ X 600 SDI, one of the first things I did, which I do with every machine I own, is start researching where the maintenance pain points are. My sled had 6500 miles on it when I picked it up. 6500 questionable miles. It makes you question how this was ridden, how often was this maintained. Never assume a maintenance item was done. This is huge, you must assume that no maintenance was done to this sled unless you were there while it was being done.

So many times you will not be getting the most in performance due to simple maintenance items that over time get gunked up. Remember there is oil mixed with gas running through these engines, and oil tends to crud up a lot of smaller areas.

Simple things from free to under $200:

  • Check the chaincase oil, look for metal shavings. if its looking cloudy and shiny, or there are shavings on the stick, drain it, pull the cover off the chaincase. It is quite easy to do and could save you a disaster.
    • Experience: I found that there was some metal shavings on the stick when I pulled it out. I drained the fluid to check that the gears were ok. What I found, was as close to a disaster as you could get. After pulling the cover, the head off of a rather large bolt holding in the primary gear had BROKEN OFF… The metal shavings I was seeing was the bolt head rubbing against the bolt itself. Imagine for a second that bolt falling into the chain itself… DISASTER.
  • Pull the RAVE Exhaust Valves and clean them up. There are numerous videos and how to’s on how to do this. It is a very simple procedure and depending on how dirty they are, can really rob power from your engine.
    • Experience: The 2007’s RAVE Valves were a bit dirty but gave me peace of mind that they had been gone through. Check that off the list.
  • Pull out the airbox, Throttle bodies/carbs, and the carb boots, and reeds. This is another simple thing to do and can gain some power back. The carb boots need to be inspected push on the rubber everywhere to ensure there is no cuts or breakage, if you see any separation replace them. This can cause a lean condition and cause your motor to fail. Clean the dust out of the carbs and throttle bodies. Inspect the reeds, hold them up to the light and look through, you should not see any light coming through. This can rob lower end power. Aftermarket reeds are a good power adder, if you find one in your sled, well do a little happy dance.
    • Experience: I completed the above on the snowmobile, what i found was…. well interesting. So when I pulled the reeds out there are 8 small screws that hold the reed petals to the cage. One of the screws was missing and 4 of them were either stripped or stuck. I picked up some replacement screws, and when I went to put the one that was missing in, I realized there was no threads, so likely the previous owner overtightened. I was able to rethread and use a screw that was a tad larger (computer screw from laptop).  I had also ordered some Boyesen Power Reed Replacement petals (dual stage) which was a cheap alternative to replacing with BRP Reeds, or replacing with a Rage Cage or VForce Cage.
  • Spark Plugs. It may sound like a no brainer, but its these small little things that often go unnoticed or just slip through the cracks.
  • Cooling. Keeping that engine cool really helps when on the trails. It saves belts and keeps the engine from being heat soaked thus robbing power when you need it.
    • Experience: On the rev, theres a plastic shrowd over the belt that can be cut out or the rivets popped to remove, will keep that belt nice and cool, leave the metal to ensure if the belt does blow you will be safe, as well as it wont throw belt pieces everywhere.
    • Experience: There are cheap kits that can be used to create some very nice looking vents to keep the engine bay cool.
  • Refresh that Clutch every year. The clutch is something people on the forums talk about and can cause your eyes to glaze over talking about different spring rates and teeth. There are however some simple things to do that will make your clutch run well for years to come.
    • Build or buy the tools needed to take apart the primary and secondary clutches. The tools are available from certain retailers, but can also be made quite easily from the hardware store and will come in handy every fall when you are looking to clean up and inspect the clutch.
    • There are wear parts on the clutch such as the buttons and rollers and bumps that are easily replaceable for very little money. These usually only need to be replaced every couple years but it is good to keep an eye on them.
  • Get your shocks rebuilt. It sounds like a costly adventure however it is really not. I was able to get the 2 front and 2 rear shocks rebuilt at a price of around $150 locally. If your shocks are the rebuildable clicker shocks or otherwise rebuildable, find a shop that specializes in it and get it done.
    •  Experience: Was a bit more involved due to pulling the skid and such, but was only about a couple hours of work due to the fact I was also replacing a number of bushings and spacers, and making sure everything was dialed in and oiled up.
  • Find and Grease all of the areas needed. This goes under ride performance as well and just keeping things working well.
  • Inspect and replace your hyfax. These are wear items on your skid and should be replaced when they wear. They tend to wear faster when driving on ice and in low snow conditions as your track will not be getting a while lot of water in there to lube them up.
While yes the PlastiDip snowmobile tunnel looked great as a boredom project, it did not last past the first ride. Would not recommend doing this.
Remember this is what its all about. Getting out on the trails with your family and friends, and enjoying winter!
Adrien and Dad Snowmobile sales listing sale
With the sled running great, get out on those trails and enjoy the scenery.

Well I do hope that will get you a good start, all of the above items are very fun and interesting to do for someone who likes to tinker and work on their sled. The big thing is to just make the sled your own. The more you research about it and go out and do work on it, the more familiar you will be with it. There are so many resources out there for information, the majority coming from other people who have been through it already. If you have any other items you have found work great, please leave a comment below with some great cheap mods that should keep these Revs and older sleds running well.

Thank you,

Tom Ferlaak

Now that the snowmobile is running great, go out and make some memories and have some fun!

January 25, 2018
Posted by: Tom Ferlaak